Midway through our mini-trek into the Fjords, we stopped at the Kaupanger stave church, which dates from the 12th century. This is the largest stave church in the county of Sogn og Fjordane, which also includes the famou
s Briksdalsbreen arm of the  Jostedalsbreen 
glacier.
While perusing the small gift shop, I discovered a set of postcards of watercolor drawings by architect and  painter Franz Wilhelm Schiertz. Schiertz's command of watercolors lends  itself to beautiful landscapes - his palette is decisive and he blends  the colors smoothly. Pablo observed that the quality of the pencil lines  (quick and light but precise) evidenced the use of a mechanical drawing aid, such as a camera lucida.
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| camera lucida (photo credits to vam.ac.uk) | 
The Schiertz paintings are all circa 1840, when  mechanically-aided drawings were so prevalent that they created a style of  drawing in which the artist sought to emulate the line quality and  composition afforded by a camera lucida. One of the drawings depicts the stave  church at Borgund against a mountain backdrop.
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| Borgund Stave Church by Hanz Wilhelm Schiertz (c. 1840) | 
The next day, when we  indeed went to Borgund to view the stave church, Pablo and I traipsed  around the church with the intent of recreating the scene as Schiertz  drew it. Fences hindered our progress, but from the angle nearest to the  original, we could see that something was fishy. 
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| As close as I could approximate the view in the Franz Wilhelm Schiertz painting | 
Although the church  sat in the landscape below as it had in the painting (the tower to the right of the church in the painting is behind the tree in the photo), the mountains  behind were entirely different. The mountains as they actually appeared  did not even closely resemble the formations in the painting. The mountain that slopes up to the right in the painting slopes down to the left in the photo. There can only be one conclusion: Schiertz  made falsified the view. This didn't come as a surprise to me, but Pablo exhausted  every possible angle to the problem, supposing that Schiertz used a mirror to reflect  the mountains behind him, but since the painted mountains weren't even a conceivably accurate mirror of the actual formations, he eventually had to concede that the  mountains in the painting were a fake.
I know that painters  make things up all the time, or at the very least stretch the truth to  fit within their desires, but never before have I been confronted with  the contradiction. Rather, I've never been able to verify the physical  truth of a painting. Does it matter that the artist altered reality for  the sake of composition? How else can a man move mountains, if not with  his hands? Does my understanding of the building change significantly  between one or the other? The painting is already inaccurate since  Schiertz is taking creative liberties with his watercoloring. Is a photo  more real than a painting? Pablo would say that the painting in its  falsity deceives the viewer as to the church's scale, siting and  orientation. Schiertz does a further injustice to the vikings who, presumably,  carefully positioned the church with respect to the surrounding  landscape. I find it interesting that Schiertz found the situation as it  stood to be incorrect, at least for the purposes of his painting. I  trust the painter more than the reality, because while the reality is  what's there, the painting opens me up to what 
could be there.
At first I thought that maybe they have moved the building, as they did with many very old wooden structures ( http://kizhi.karelia.ru/index_en.html ) but there is no mention of that anywhere. So it seems the church stays and only drawings are moving it elsewhere ;)
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